I had a choice. Pay hundreds of pounds on a part for my car which it may or may not need, or go on an adventure.
I choose the latter. I choose well.
Autumn in the UK is both beautiful and dark, damp and miserable. It’s the perfect time to throw caution to the wind, fill up the rucksack and head for the hills.
I browsed the internet, with a half-baked intent: Somewhere far away and exotic, but affordable (please and thank you universe). My eyes kept being pulled to these words:
8 days Yoga, Meditation and Hiking in Nepal”.
I choose the latter. I choose well.
Autumn in the UK is both beautiful and dark, damp and miserable. It’s the perfect time to throw caution to the wind, fill up the rucksack and head for the hills.
I browsed the internet, with a half-baked intent: Somewhere far away and exotic, but affordable (please and thank you universe). My eyes kept being pulled to these words:
8 days Yoga, Meditation and Hiking in Nepal”.
Oh, that sounded just right – rest and relaxation with some hiking added to the adrenalin mix for good measure. Too good to miss.
So, go for it. Check out flights, book annual leave, figure out the finances – it’s do-able.
It’s done. It only took a few clicks.
By sheer coincidence I’d arrived at the beginning of Diwali. At the airports, complete strangers wished me a Happy Diwali. It felt like Christmas Eve, and that warm glow-worm of delight filled my belly. It was Diwali – imagine that. Festival of Light! Four flights removed and now I was on the edge of another world – it felt oddly ethereal, as I took in the panorama of the Annapurna range.
My destination was the Shivalaya Yoga and Meditation Centre at Lake Begnas. The little town of Begnas is about a half hour taxi ride from Pokhara – and oh my, what a ride! I was a complete novice to the Nepali road experience, ‘sans seat belts’ and so my heart leapt into my mouth – once, twice, thrice! ‘I’m a survivor right. What could possibly go wrong?’ and nothing did, that was the joy of it.
So, go for it. Check out flights, book annual leave, figure out the finances – it’s do-able.
It’s done. It only took a few clicks.
By sheer coincidence I’d arrived at the beginning of Diwali. At the airports, complete strangers wished me a Happy Diwali. It felt like Christmas Eve, and that warm glow-worm of delight filled my belly. It was Diwali – imagine that. Festival of Light! Four flights removed and now I was on the edge of another world – it felt oddly ethereal, as I took in the panorama of the Annapurna range.
My destination was the Shivalaya Yoga and Meditation Centre at Lake Begnas. The little town of Begnas is about a half hour taxi ride from Pokhara – and oh my, what a ride! I was a complete novice to the Nepali road experience, ‘sans seat belts’ and so my heart leapt into my mouth – once, twice, thrice! ‘I’m a survivor right. What could possibly go wrong?’ and nothing did, that was the joy of it.
 | I’m dropped off at the edge of Lake Begnas. The taxi driver points – “up there” – to a stunning looking edge of forever place. I could have taken the steps, but that would have been too easy – I took the trek less travelled, which as it turned out, was much more interesting and yes, entertaining. Each stranger I asked “Shivalaya Yoga?” and each friendly face – from small child to ancient octogenarian – points “Up there”. |
A giant gold-gilted Shiva in meditative state welcomes me silently. Just one more push – almost there, like giving birth (keep breathing, focus on your breath) - put one foot in front of the other – a few more steps and alas! The warmest welcome from the coolest people, sitting chillin’ beneath the thatch.
| Now, to reverse a bit, on the flight from Delhi to Kathmandu I got my first ever sight of the Himalayas. I was overwhelmed by the majesty of their crowns and thought I might cry it was so beautiful. On the little, low flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara I saw the Annapurna range for the first time, and was filled with that wonderful child-like sense of wonder – but the best was yet to come. When I got my first view from Shivalaya across Lake Begnas, the pure-white peaks beyond the rice-terraced hills, I got chills. The purity of light, the way it seemed to stream and cascade from the heavens; the sunsets and sunrises casting cool, delicate shades – pink, orange, blue and purple hues draped across those snowy peaks – if this don’t make your soul soar, nothing will. Just go with it – move with it, breathe, fill the lungs, chill, laugh, cry if the mountains move you to do so. It’s ok. Everything is ok – it’s my first day, and I am filled with an overwhelming sense of peace and well-being – and we haven’t even started the retreat yet! |  |
I meet Marija – the wonderful woman of myyogicadventure.com.
She is a force of nature, and a beautiful human being. She could not have been more helpful. I am a day early – but she arranged a room for the extra night, meals, and even a couple of extra classes to kick start the experience.
Her smile stretches from ear to ear, her lilting accent a delight to hear, and her light and love radiate magnetically. I feel in safe hands and wonderful company. Most of all, Marija does not take herself too seriously – she has an enigmatic sense of humour. She’s funny and she laughs a lot. She is a joy-maker. I could not have chosen better – all by chance, by sheer luck and good fortune, I am here at Shivalaya, Begnas, Nepal, far from Belfast and the hum-drum rain-sodden streets.
She is a force of nature, and a beautiful human being. She could not have been more helpful. I am a day early – but she arranged a room for the extra night, meals, and even a couple of extra classes to kick start the experience.
Her smile stretches from ear to ear, her lilting accent a delight to hear, and her light and love radiate magnetically. I feel in safe hands and wonderful company. Most of all, Marija does not take herself too seriously – she has an enigmatic sense of humour. She’s funny and she laughs a lot. She is a joy-maker. I could not have chosen better – all by chance, by sheer luck and good fortune, I am here at Shivalaya, Begnas, Nepal, far from Belfast and the hum-drum rain-sodden streets.
 | The retreat proper starts on 1st November 2015. We are a small group – but we bond as if by magic. Michelle from England, Steffi from Stuttgart, later Alice arrives from Pokhara. Other yogis and travellers come and go from the centre – it feels as if the whole globe is represented. We are a multi-cultural crew; chatting, storytelling, adventures and experiences – long leisurely breakfasts, delicious dinners with entertaining company, watching those sun sets seep into star-lit nights. Hawks swoop, eagles soar, fruit bats loop the loop. |
My new room is perfect. Ganesh is on my door for good fortune and protection. My room steps out onto the view, with abundance of jungle foliage below and beyond – a Shiva tree, its fruit ripe for the picking, a reminder of this perfect earth, and its endless giving and forgiving.
I have a double bed, cosy cushions, a bedside table, a desk and chair, an en suite with toilet and shower. It’s simple but tastefully done. I could not want for more.
The days start early – but we retire early, relaxed and exonerated from each wonderful day – just the right mix of full on activity and time to relax and check in with the self.
I have a double bed, cosy cushions, a bedside table, a desk and chair, an en suite with toilet and shower. It’s simple but tastefully done. I could not want for more.
The days start early – but we retire early, relaxed and exonerated from each wonderful day – just the right mix of full on activity and time to relax and check in with the self.
| Morning yoga – might start at 6am, or 7 or 8am depending on the day’s agenda – takes place in a beautiful covered but open air studio – overlooking the lakes and mountains. Marija teaches traditional Hatha, with an emphasis on alignment – and her classes are a perfect blend of gentle poses to the advanced – but each individual encouraged to go with their own pace and ability. As someone with a daily home practice, who makes a class whenever I can or when I can afford to do so, I’m by far the least advanced of the group – but I don’t feel disadvantaged or discouraged in any way (which has been the case occasionally at classes – one of the reasons I have preferred to practice at home in the past). |  |
On day one we are in for a surprise. It is the special family day of Diwali, and all of us visitors are invited fully into the family gathering. Shivalaya is a family run yoga and meditation centre and the husband and wife team and their staff are so helpful and kind (fulfilling my endless demands for more Tulsi tea). There is a feast for all – and the food on this day and every day throughout the retreat is bountiful and beautiful. Spoilt rotten, as we’d say at home. All vegetarian and adjusted for vegans if and as required – the food is wholesome, nourishing and utterly delicious.
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That night, people from the neighbouring area are celebrating Diwali. We end up ‘partying’ and dancing into the night. The partying continues for a few more evenings – the following night a large speaker is carried up the steps, and young women in traditional Nepali costume dance as if there’s no tomorrow. The grace, dignity and beauty of these people know no bounds. Being here during Diwali has enhanced the entire, excellent experience.
For November, the weather is wonderful - warm mornings, hot afternoons, cool evenings.
For November, the weather is wonderful - warm mornings, hot afternoons, cool evenings.
For hiking, we need to leave early to ensure we have plenty of time for our yoga and meditation classes each morning and evening. The longest hike I did was around seven to eight hours – it was steep, I persevered, but when we got to the top – the panoramic views were breath taking, the air was clean and clear. I felt my lungs fill with a joy I wished I could capture forever. It was noon – and this was for me, the high of the whole time in Nepal, I cannot find the words to describe the beauty and the exhilaration, sense of accomplishment and freedom. On the way down, Marija and Dom (a highly experienced yogi and traveller) had arranged for us all to stop for lunch with a Nepali family for Dal bhat – a traditional Nepali dish, most welcoming for a pack of hungry hikers.
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Other highlights included a boat trip on the lake, day trip to explore Pokhara, short hikes, chillin’ and chatting in mountain cafes, or precious time rocking in a hammock.
Eight days of heaven, bliss, and an all-embracing wonderful experience.
Eight days of heaven, bliss, and an all-embracing wonderful experience.
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I get the bus to Kathmandu. It’s also an experience – stunning views, a lovely lunch included and a few hairy moments (so I just looked up, didn’t look down). I booked myself into a hotel in Kathmandu – America had gone to the polls, and by breakfast time, I realised I was back in the real world, a real world that had changed overnight. I wished, wanted to go back up the mountain, but it was time to fly back west.
I’d only tasted Nepal, yet I wanted to drink it all in. I made wishes and tossed them out there in the hope that some fly-by fairy godmother might notice.
I fly back to London for a few days – then touch down in Belfast midnight, 12th November. Rain batters the apron, I get the chills. I look forward to the day when I go back up the Nepali hills, and stretch on through this life via a thousand more amazing yoga, meditation and hiking retreats. Bring it on!
Namaste!
Julie Williams-Nash
19th November 2016
I’d only tasted Nepal, yet I wanted to drink it all in. I made wishes and tossed them out there in the hope that some fly-by fairy godmother might notice.
I fly back to London for a few days – then touch down in Belfast midnight, 12th November. Rain batters the apron, I get the chills. I look forward to the day when I go back up the Nepali hills, and stretch on through this life via a thousand more amazing yoga, meditation and hiking retreats. Bring it on!
Namaste!
Julie Williams-Nash
19th November 2016
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